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Common Shrimp Diseases in Freshwater Shrimp Hobby

 

This article was written by Ros Shackleton in 2015 for Shrimp Corner, a member of UK Shrimp Keepers Facebook Group. And we have added more up-to-date information in 2025.

 

Disclaimer: The following information and photos have been replicated from a thread with permission by the author Jayc, based in Australia. Our sincere thanks to Jac for granting this permission to use this valuable information, that he has been painstakingly collated for everyone’s benefit.

 

Hope you all find the information useful.

 

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With the wealth of knowledge from experienced keepers here in the shrimp keeping community, we should have a repository of Shrimp Diseases where people can come to diagnose and hopefully find a cure to their shrimp's ailment.

 

Just like in the world of aquatic fish keeping where identification and diagnosis of diseases in fish and known cures are part and parcel of every aquatic forum, so should we have one for shrimp.

 

Vorticella

 

I'd like to start this database off with the very common Vorticella parasite which looks like White fungus or mould growth on the shell of the shrimp.

 

Vorticella is actually a protozoa of 16 known species, not a fungus at all. Vorticella are aquatic organisms, most commonly found in freshwater habitats. They attach themselves to plant detritus, rocks, algae, or animals (particularly crustaceans).

 

Vorticella are heterotrophic organisms. They prey on bacteria. Vorticella use their cilia to create a current of water (vortex) to direct food towards its mouth.

 

Typically, Vorticella reproduce via binary fission. The new organism splits from the parent and swims until it can find something on which to anchor itself.

 

If left untreated, vorticella have been known to cause the death of the shrimp it was attached to.

 

Here are examples of what it looks like.

 

  

 

Possible causes: Poor water conditions. Increase water change frequency.

 

Is Vorticella Dangerous to Shrimp?

 

As a rule, Vorticella is harmless to shrimps, but only until they multiply in large numbers and do not fall into the gills, leading to the suffocation of the shrimp. Ciliates may deplete a significant amount of oxygen from the environment where the oxygen tension may be already low and thus reduce the gas diffusion across the gill membrane. That is why if you do not fight the parasite; there is a good chance that the shrimp will die eventually.

Infection of ciliates on the gills of shrimp usually does not affect the growth of the shrimp. Because they do not derive nourishment directly from the host but considered to have a synergistic effect during the period of stress.

According to IJP: Parasites and Wildlife 7 (2018). These invasions rarely cause death in the wild, but under the stressful conditions often found in densely stocked aquaculture ponds and tanks, they can get out of control and have a negative impact on mobility, molting, growth, and function. Breeding and feeding may stop, and this may result in death. Parasites easily transmit between the species; thus, it is important to isolate any affected specimens in a timely manner and to isolate newly acquired shrimps.

The parasite can also affect the larvae and post larvae of caridean shrimps by inhibiting their feeding activities and movement (Shailender et al., 2012). Therefore, the widespread occurrence of this peritrichous ciliate could be dangerous for the shrimps (Patoka et al., 2016).

 

Treatment Solution 1 – Genchem No Planaria / Dog Worming Tablet – we recommended this one

 

•           Genchem No Planaria – simply use half the recommended dosage on the back of the packaging. Make sure you mix the powder in a cup with tank’s water first, before pouring it into the tank. This treatment is enough to kill off all the vorticella and there is no need for 2nd treatments, nor any water change is needed.

•           Dog Wormer tablets – please follow our guidance on How To Treat Planarias Using Dog Wormer

 

Treatment Solution 2 - Salt bath with aquarium salts. Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine.

 

•           Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water).

•           Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the vorticella disappears, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water).

•           Low doses of the salt bath have been known to be ineffective.

•           Ick and fungus cure meds don't work on Vorticella.

 

Treatment Solution 3 - Seachem Paraguard

 

•           This could work as well at the full recommended dosage, since this is a parasitic med. But Seachem have admitted Paraguard isn't invertebrate safe. So only try Paraguard as a last resort and drip it into the tank premixed from a bucket of tank water slowly

 

These treatments are in no way a replacement for good tank husbandry. So, keep up with your water change routines, and removal debris and uneaten food.

 

Scutariella Japonica

 

 

The shrimp keeping hobby has seen a remarkable surge in popularity over the past few decades, leading to an increased interest in various aquatic species, particularly neocaridina shrimp species.

 

Neocaridina, commonly known as cherry shrimp, has earned themselves a significant following. However, the rise in popularity in ponds oversea also brings challenges, particularly concerning shrimp health.

 

One of the most common issues faced by shrimp keepers is the infestation of parasites, particularly Scutariella Japonica.

 

This section aims to provide a thorough understanding of this parasite, its identification, treatment options, and preventive measures to help shrimp enthusiasts maintain a healthy aquarium environment.

 

What Is Scutariella Japonica

 

Scutariella Japonica is a type of flatworm classified under the phylum Plathelmintae and the class Trematoda. These parasites are typically found in freshwater environments, attaching themselves to the gills and body of their shrimp hosts. They are often described as "sit-on" worms, as they utilize the shrimp as a substrate for their own survival without significantly harming them in moderate numbers. However, heavy infestations can lead to health complications for the shrimp, making it essential for hobbyists to understand how to recognize and manage this parasite.

 

 

Identifying Scutariella Japonica

The first sign of infection of a shrimp by Scutariella japonica is the appearance of a small white stick-like growth of about 1 to 2 millimetres on top of a shrimp’s head. These parasites live not only on the heads of shrimp but also in their gills. However, they are very rarely found toward the legs of the shrimp or the lower part of their bodies.

 

To identify *Scutariella Japonica*, look for small, white, branch-like appendages measuring 1 to 2 millimetres on the shrimp’s head or rostrum. These parasitic flatworms, classified as Plathelmintae/Tubellaria/Temnocephalidae/Scutarielloidea, typically attach themselves between the eyes or on the rostrum, with rare instances of being found on legs or other body parts.

 

Life Cycle of Scutarella Japonica

 

The adult worms are typically found adhering to the gills or rostrum of their shrimp hosts. They reproduce by laying eggs, which are often visible as small white dots located in rows behind the shrimp’s head in the gill chamber.

 

When the shrimp moults, the eggs are released into the water, where they can hatch and seek new hosts. This lifecycle allows the parasite to spread quickly, especially in aquariums where shrimp are frequently moulting. Understanding this life cycle is crucial for effectively treating and preventing infestations.

 

Those parasites grow, thrive, and reproduce inside of the shrimp. This means that they also lay eggs inside the shrimp’s head or in the gills region of the shrimp. After the shrimp moults, the eggs are liberated, open up, and go on to colonize more shrimps. Although those eggs are small in diameter, there are often several of them forming a noticeable white formation around the shrimp’s head. This makes them easy to spot even without using a microscope.

 

Treatment Solution 1 – Genchem No Planaria / Dog Worming Tablet – we recommended this one

 

•           Genchem No Planaria – simply use half the recommended dosage on the back of the packaging. Make sure you mix the powder in a cup with tank’s water first, before pouring it into the tank. This treatment is enough to kill off all the vorticella and there is no need for 2nd treatments, nor any water change is needed.

•           Dog Wormer tablets – please follow our guidance on How To Treat Planarias Using Dog Wormer

 

Treatment Solution 2 - Salt bath with aquarium salts. Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine.

 

•           Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water).

•           Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the vorticella disappears, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water).

•           Low doses of the salt bath have been known to be ineffective.

•           Ick and fungus cure meds don't work on Vorticella.

 

Treatment Solution 3 - Seachem Paraguard

 

•           This could work as well at the full recommended dosage, since this is a parasitic med. But Seachem have admitted Paraguard isn't invertebrate safe. So only try Paraguard as a last resort and drip it into the tank premixed from a bucket of tank water slowly

 

These treatments are in no way a replacement for good tank husbandry. So, keep up with your water change routines, and removal debris and uneaten food.

 

Holtodrilus Truncates

 

Holtodrilus truncates (shrimp worms) are small, worm-like obligate epibionts (organisms living on other organisms, basically, parasites) of crustaceans, mainly crayfish and shrimp. These worms do not appear to prefer to anchor to the rostrum, instead of anchoring under the shrimp right between the pleopods.

 

These parasites are a new threat that came to use from Asian aquaculture ponds. Shrimp worms can affect shrimp wellbeing by causing distress which leads directly to shrimp weakness, loss of color, and even casualties.

 

Treatment is the same as Vorticella.

 

Known treatment solutions:

 

Treatment Solution 1 - Salt bath with aquarium salts. Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine.

 

·       Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water).

·       Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the parasite drops off, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water) to allow easier re-treatment.

 

Treatment Solution 2 -  Genchem's "No Planaria" and similar

 

Use half the Dosage as per instructions on the packaging of No Planaria.

Duration: 3 days, although you might see the pests disappear after one day, continuing treatment will ensure any unseen parasites are also killed.

Perform a water change at the end of No Planaria treatment.

Watch for ammonia spike and treat if necessary.

 

Similarly, Benibachi Planaria Zero well also work in killing these parasites.

 

Another product that might be useful in treating these pests is a product called "Internal Parasite Clear" by Guangzhou Bigfish Aquarium Corp.

 

Update: Internal Parasite Clear (half dose including 1/2 dose follow up treatment 3 days later) and Planaria Zero by Benibachi have been confirmed as effective treatment by SKFA members.

 

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